CHARMING LUCCA

San Michele -Italian workers on strike for 500 yrs. The nave is not yet complete!! Actually the church ran out of funds.

Ramparts surround Lucca.

San Frediano with a 14th century mosaic- inside is the lace clad mummy of St. Zita circa 1250.

Piazza dell'Anfiteatra- here once stood the ancient Roman amphitheater. Some of the medieval buildings built around the amphitheater retain its original oval shape and brick arches.

Piazza dell'Carmine-  in honor of mio padre who liked to eat!! You can see here that walking and riding a bike on the narrow cobblestone streets are very common in Lucca.

Torre Guinigi- a Palazzo with a grove of ilex trees growing at the top of the tower. A climb of 265 steps awards you with a beautiful view of the city with its terracotta roofs.

Homes and buildings in charming Lucca.

Top of the ramparts circling Lucca - a perfect place for a stroll or bike ride.

The famous composer Giacomo Puccini was born in Lucca.

Ramparts built in the 16th century enclose this charming town of Lucca which is filled with 99 churches. It is important that I show you a picture of all 99 chiese. Just kidding. As shown above the ramparts circling la citta are a perfect place to take a stroll, ride a bike, kick a ball, or just stand and look down upon Lucca. But be aware at all times of where the edge is- there are no railings and the drop from the wall to the ground can be as high as 40 feet. This upscale yet quaint city has terracotta roof buildings and narrow cobblestone strade. The historic center is restricted to motorists. Therefore walking and biking are the most efficient and most enjoyable way to get around the neighborhood. You can actually observe local ladies maneuver bicilette to do their daily shopping. Here Caesar, Pompey and Crassus agreed to rule Rome as a triumvirate in the 60 BC. Lucca was latter the first Tuscan town to accept Christianity. The famous composer Giacomo Puccini was born here in 1858 - his work forms the nucleus of the summer Opera Theater and Music Festival, staged in open air venues. La boheme, Tosca, Madama Butterfly anyone.
 Ah, ascolto Luciano Pavarotti ora.
Ciao

Henry Ward Beecher

"There are joys which long to be ours. God sends ten thousands truths, which come about us like birds seeking inlet; but we are shut up to them, and so they bring us nothing, but sit and sing awhile upon the roof, and then fly away."
~Henry Ward Beecher

SPECIALITA TOSCANE- MERCATO CENTRALE

                                                            PROSCIUTTO ANYONE?

                                                                          AGLIO ANYONE?

                                                                  TRIPPA  ANYONE?!!!

Here at this 150 year old cafe people wait on line for a tripe sandwich

IL DUOMO

          PORTE DEL BATTISTERO - GHIBERTI

                                                

 

 

FUORI IL DUOMO

                                                                      DENTRO IL DUOMO

Torna a FIrenze

Torna a Firenze
 I once again went to Firenze today. On the bus ride I studied my Italian and checked my guide book for the  plans and sites of the day. Upon arrival I immediately headed to il bar for my tipico primo calazione. How can I start my day without having the worlds best cappuccino. Buono. After leaving the cafe I came across a casual acquaintance from my past. We had met several times before with the last time being more than a decade ago. He had not changed. He is a very large man who has that pensive look on his face yet he seems to be very content in his accomplishment. I would actually say a very attractive specimen. Despite his age most male models today would be envious of him. He has longish wavy hair, trim in his build yet muscular. He is poised and graceful and alert. Very alive.
He is an important individual in the world of art. In fact, I believe you may have heard of him - or if you are as fortunate as I- maybe you have met him. His name is David.
He lives in the Galleria dell'Accademia. Here is a collection of Florentine paintings etc dating from the 13th to 18th centuries. When you first walk in you come across the unfinished slaves, fighting their way out of their marble prisons.These are sculptures - part stone and part man. It is amazing to see some examples of Michelangelo's unfinished work and how they looked way before the statues were completed.
The picture posted here is a replica of the original statue of David taken outside at the Piazza della Signoria. However, this is the same spot that the original statue remained in public view until 1873 when it was moved to the GDA.  As you might suspect the museo does not allow any photography inside. A Plexiglas barrier surrounds the sculpture following an attack on it by a hammer-wielding artist who inflicted minor damage in1991. 
In 1501 Michelangelo at age 26 was commissioned to work on a left over block of marble that was ruined 40 years prior by another artist. The success with the block was so dramatic that the city showered him with honors. David is considered today by many as High Renaissance perfection.
As you look at David you begin to wonder how did Michelangelo accomplish such a materpiece out of stone? You can see every detail -veins, rib cage, bones, cartilage, fingernails, muscles, cornea along with a six pack for a stomach. Some parts of his body show strength and other parts show softness. Ladies -I'll skip what I know is on your mind. You cannot walk away from David because you become hypnotized in Michelangelo's world. Just try to leave and observe some of the other artwork and you will find yourself returning not once but several times just because you want to see that magnificent specimen/statue one last time.

Molto Bello Michelangelo with his David

FIRENZE

Time for some history- Top is Brunelleschi's genius gothic work of the Duomo with the Dome in the background. Second is copy of a statue a of David at Piazza della Signoria. Here in 1497 is where the famous "bonfire of the vanities" took place.  Ah David, try wearing a raincoat like they do in NYC. Third-  This is Cellini's famous bronze Perseus holding the severed head of Medusa. I told you Medusa that heads would be rolling. Fourth is the Ponte Vecchio with some dam Italian guy in my way.  Second from the bottom is a view of this great city of Firenze taken from Piazzale Michaelangelo. And finally, here again is a Gothic design of the Church of Santa Croce. This church probably contains more skeletons of Renaissance celebrities than any other in Italy. Here lies the tombs of: Michaelangelo, Galileo Galilie, Machiavelli whose political views so influenced the Medici, Ghiberti ( the creator of the Baptistry doors), and finally a monument in honor of Italy's greatest poet Dante.
ENJOY!!!!

Take that California - lets compare choke to choke

This is just the kind of produce that you will find in  il supermercato- long stem artichokes for your date anyone??

Hello Americ - View from my balcony

Hello America:

Once again the days have been busy. With the US holiday on Monday I had more time to check out the surrounding area. But first things first- I had to go to il supermacato to fill up la mia figorifero. The store was exceptionally clean with everything being of the highest quality. They have available clear plastic gloves which all of the customers use before handling the produce. Most all the fruits and vegetables come with stems attached to insure their freshness as long as possible. Almost like buying long stem roses.
Needless to say the dried sausage, ham and cheese areas where not to be believed. And of course I purchased my favorite veggies of all - carciofi along with melanzane.

Some of the meals here have been interesting. I have had crostini con porri. A simple dish of toasted bread with sauteed  leeks on top sprinkled with some pecorini cheese. Most people for breakfast have either pane con marmalda or brioche. I must say everywhere I go the cappuccino is the best I have ever had. The latte is perfectly swirled on top and the coffee itself is favoloso. The brioche con crema just makes you shake your head. How can it be this good!!!!! Oh how I look forward to primo colazione tutti giorni.

Cristina and Francesco continue to be adorable. Cristina is always smiling and soooo helpful.There has a sweetness and softness about her that is irresistible. She dresses more causal than Franco- wearing jeans most of the time and she is much more modern than most woman her age in Italy. Christina watches her carb intake and is careful when using cheese.  Franco has style with his wavy salt and pepper hair. An attractive thin man who usually wears corduroy pants and a classic sweater. Of course, he always has that stylish scarf wrapped around his neck like a cravat. I love the way Franco stirs his coffee and sugar together. He stands at attention and raises his elbow high with spoon in hand. He then dips the spoon in the coffee and rotates his wrist as if he were conducting una orchestra. I am blessed with having these two beautiful people as my neighbors.

Franco and I took a walk today to a nearby town. As we passed one nursery after another he explained to me that the town of Pistoia is noted for growing plants that are distributed all over Europe. Every day since my arrival their has been a heavy morning mist. As we walked you could smell the wood burning fireplaces in the air. Franco told me there is an expression for this in Italian - profumo di legno- perfume of wood. How warm and comfortable this sounds.

The banks here are also interesting, Every entrata e uscita has a glass enclosed cylinder. You push the button and one side of the cylinder door opens. You walk in and wait until the other side opens. You almost feel like you are in Startrek and that Scottie is going to beam you up at any moment. As the other side opens you enter the bank and take a number - NO we are not at the supermarket or pastry shop. Once you have your ticket you then go to a lounge area to rest as you wait for your number to be called. So there is no waiting in line like we have in the US.

In Pistoia, we explored the town, went to a beautiful church and lit some candles. I am sorry to say that even in Italy the church candles no longer exist and they are operated by battery. The town was exceptionally clean with beautiful architectural buildings. While in town I actually had an Italian woman ask me for directions - WHAT - she could not tell I was a tourist. I kindly said-  non parlo Italiana.

This week I want continue to stay around the neighborhood so I can become somewhat more comfortable speaking Italian. However, very soon - I will be taking my first ride in  " l'autobus a Firenze." This should be an experience. Stay posted.

Abbastanza per ora. E tempo di dire buona notte.

Tutto mio amore

Vincenzo

Hi Guys,

I am starting out with a general letter to everyone since it has been extremely busy upon my arrival in Valenzatico.

 I awoke on the airplane with a beautiful view below me of the snow covered Alps in Switzerland. As the plane arrived into Tuscany you could see how the landscape changed from mountains to rolling hills of farmland with Italian villas perched at the highest levels. I was out of the airport in 10 minutes luggage and all. Amazingly with no forms asking where I was staying. Francesco had a sign outside reading Vincenzo/Franco-I never met Franco but I looked at him and he immediately said Benvenuto. Franco is my friends father. A  man of 65 who is distinguished looking with his scarf stylishly wrapped as if it were a tie. His moglie Cristina and Franco will be living next door to me. I know that Franco and Cristina do not speak Inglese so I was concerned how the ride home would be. To my amazement the 1500 words I learned using Rosetta Stone helped tremendously. I am not using sentences yet but the phrases helped and we were able to communicate to some degree.

La casa is spotlessly clean and modern yet with that european feel. Granite kitchen counter, tile floors, granite staircase, wooden doors and windows and of course shutters. Two bedrooms, an office, two full baths, kitchen and living room all of modest size. Cristina could not do enough for me to make my stay confortable. She reviewed the kitchen appliances along with a refrigerator stuffed with both frizzante minerale and naturale minerale acqua, prosciutto toscano, parmigiana cheese, dried sausage from calabria ( homemade by a woman in that region), cheese, eggs, lemon, beautiful red tomatoes, bread along with a beck's beer - go figure? AND of course on the kitchen counter is fruit. Oranges from Sicily, apples from modena, along with bananas and kiwis. All this next to aceto, two types of olive oil for my cooking, coffee, zucchero, sale and pepe. The bathrooms are modern by european standards but once again modest in size. On the 2 nd and 3rd floor there are balconies. The 3rd floor balcony overlooks a nursery with plants as far as you can see and having the mountains as a background.

 Franco and Cristina are beautiful inside and outside. Friendly and always smiling. When we cannot communicate we get on the computer and use google to help us.

Cristina cooked lunch yesterday- I was able to taste the dry sausage from Calabria ( the best ever),  then onto ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta topped by a delicate tomato sauce. Our second course was homemade veal meatballs the size of a quarter along with a tomato and lettuce salad. I might add that the temperature this time of year is moderate. Low of 40 and high of around 55 degrees. Yet they have a fire burning day and night for that Tuscano atmosphere while we are eating.

We then spent the rest of the day trying to hook up my computer but failed. So they called in their son- in - law,  Fabrizzio to help. After many hours we were finally able to get a connection. So - of course Cristiana invited me over for dinner as any Italian mama would do.. I came back to finish unpacking and headed back for la cena around 8pm. This time we had chicken marsala and baby peas made with chunks of salami. Favoloso. Multi Buono. Afterwards a little TV which I could not understand ( no subtitles here). I closed my shutters for the evening at my bedroom window  and then i was out like a light.

 

I woke up much later than I expected  ( 8:30) and took a 75 minute walk to the next town and back for some exercise. I was suppose to meet Franco for prima colazione around 10am but it was to late for breakfast. Therefore Cristina again did what any Italian mother would do and served Francesco and me lunch- she had to leave because her daugther ( Fabrizzio's wife ) was not feeling well. So she went there bringing soup and who knows what other food. So - for pranzo we had orrchiette with brocolli rabe and then onto roast pork with fresh rosemary which grows in their back yard. Brussel sprouts was the veggie. I asked about the transportation services - ie bus, train etc. so I could get a feel for getting around. Obvioulsy I cant walk everywhere like I did this morning. Franco mentioned that he would like to take me to Vinci- yes the home of Leonardo da Vinci. So through the molto bello mountains we went. It took about 30 minutes and the scenery was exquisite. We arrived at the very clean old city of Vinci to the house( built in the year 500 )where he was born and of course with a beautiful view. We then went onto  -il museo di Leonardo. I cannot begin to explain the diverstiy that this man created around 1500 - astronomy, military guns, the first military tank, looms, airplanes - yes over 400 years before the Wright Brothers- pulley machines, automated stamping machines to flatten out leather and it goes on and on. And of course - let us not forget that he painted The Mona Lisa.

 

Well I am back in la mia casa and writing to everyone. After this I am going to study Italian.  I miss you all and hope to keep everyone up to date. And of course all are welcome to visit. Just let me know!!!!  For la cena I am again asked to go over to Cristina and Fancesco for dinner - I cant wait - OH BABY!!!!!

 

Love to All   - Vincent