ASSISI - Tranquillo Sereno Silenzioso

The small town of Assisi is one of the Christian worlds most important pilgrimage sites and home of the Basilica di San Franceso (on the left side of town). Like most other towns in the region, Assisi began as an Umbri Settlement in the 7 th century BC and was conquered by the Romans 400 years later. The town was Christianized by St Ruffino in the 3rd century but it is the spirit of St Francis that is felt throughout these narrow medieval streets.

Assisi is pristinely medieval in architecture and appearance. But not even the constant flood of visitors of this town with just 3000 residents can spoil the the beauty of this significant religious center.

The peace and serenity of the town is a welcome respite after the hustle and bustle of some of Italy's major cities.

In the Cathedrale of San Rufino lies the crypt of Saint Ruffino, the bishop who brought Christianity to Assisi and was martyred around 238.

Inside San Ruffino which was the principal church in town until the 12th century - the baptismal front where Saint Francis and Saint Clare (one of the first followers of St Francis) where baptized.

A statue of Saint Francis - a patron saint of Italy.

San Damiano- It was here while praying in the church of Saint Damian that Saint Francis heard the words of God - Restore my house. It later became the first monastery of the Order of Saint Clare

Basilica di Santa Chiara - the lovely wide piazza in front of this church is reason enough to visit. The facade of the church frames the piazza's panoramic view over the Umbrian plains. Saint Clare - one of the earliest followers of St Francis was the founder of order of the Poor Ladies. The church contains Clare's body which you can view.

Finally, Assisi's Basilica Di San Francesco. The basilica is not one church but two. A Romanesque lower church came first. The low ceilings and candlelit interior make an appropriately solemn setting for St Francis tomb. The Gothic upper church was built a half a century later and is strikingly different, with arches and tall stained glass windows.

The walkway up to the basilica.

Santa Maria degli Angeli - inside this church are two important pieces of history.
Standing directly under the basilica's large dome, the Porziuncola ("little portion") is the original stone chapel restored and frequently used by St. Francis. Dating from the 9th century, the long-abandoned chapel was given to Francis by the Benedictines and became the early headquarters of the new Franciscan order, founded here in 1209. So we literally have a small church standing inside the middle of the large church.
The Cappella del Transito is the small room in which St. Francis died on October 3, 1226. It is a simple hut that served as an infirmary for the sick in the community. He asked to be brought here when he felt himself near death.
Later Santa Maria was built over these two places to protect them
If you copy and past this site you will get a look at the Porziuncola.
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/assisi-maria-degli-angeli-photos/slides/IMG_6119p

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GRAPE ESCAPES -Greve and Panzano in Chianti

An ancient church even by Chianti standards - San Leolino dates back to the 10th century - Panzano

Ah yes - the Butcher of Panzano - the set meal consists of no less than six meat courses. Afterward he stacked ten shot glasses in his hand and poured grappa in each as he handed them out for free.

You know you are in Chianti when we begin to see local stores like this in the countryside

The Hills of Tuscany between Panzano and Greve

Time to leave Panzano and on to Greve - the capital of Chianti

Well if you are from New York you will recognize his name- Giovanni da Verazzano - Yes he discovered the New York Harbor and thus the name of the Verazzano Bridge. Just down the road is the hamlet of Montefioralle- the ancestral home of the mapmaker, navigator and explorer who named America -  Amerigo Vespucci.

The town of Greve in Chianti- Wine Shops and Salumeria galore

Back streets of Greve in Chianti

My Uncle Phil has an Italian expression which is a joke from the old country. Those who work  - eat ! ....Those who dont work - eat and drink!!   I find it cute.
Just a quick note to you oenophiles on getting to know the Tuscan Wine- Most Tuscan wines are red and produced primarily from one type of grape- sangiovese. Chianti is the most famous in Tuscan wines. Chianti Classico wines which bear the gallo nero ( black rooster) logo on the labels, are the most highly regarded Chiantis with Rufino running second. All wine are government regulated ( DOC/ DOCG) and Chianti has to have a minimum of 75% sangiovese. Brunello di Montalcino produces the most powerful of the sangiovese-based wines. Regulators stipulate that it be made entirely from the sangiovese grapes and no blending. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano does not have strict regulations as do Chianti and Brunello, and as a result have a wider range of characteristics. Both Brunello and and Montepulciano have a less pricey sibling called Rosso. Super Tuscans began in the 1970's when some winemakers, chafing at the regulations imposed on Tuscan wines, began blending  wines in innovative ways. Some are of high quality. These French oak- aged wines may be blended with either Sassicaia or Tignanello which are outstanding performers. But some purists lament the loss of local identity resulting from Super Tuscans use of nonnative grape varieties such as cabernet and merlot.
All in all- Drink and be merry!!

PERUGINA'S BACI

Inside every one of Perugina's candy -"BACI"- ( which means kiss) you find a message about love.
Today I decided to indulge and look what I found.

Nella vita l'amico e come l'acqua nel deserto.
Literally translated means -
In a lifetime the friend is like the water in the desert.
The poetic Inglese translation is-
Friendship is an oasis in the desert of life.

Love To Everyone - Miss You All

UMBRIA: Saint Valentines Day- Ah,This is why I found Perugina,Truffles and the Virgin Mary's Wedding Ring all in one day.

A view of the palaces along the Corso Vannucci walkway

Rocca Paolina -old  underground city

A musician's store in Rocca Paolina

View overlooking Perugia on a cloudy day

Duomo- Cathedral of San Lorenzo where Perugia claims to have the wedding ring of the Virgin Mary

Umbria -a region of Italy which has two famous towns. Perugia and Assisi. Central Italy is mountainous and its food is hearty with a stick to your ribs quality. On the train ride through the mountains you pass a countryside which is dotted with castles, pristine lakes, farmers picking vegetables by hand, herds of sheep and medieval towns set above. Umbria historically has been a battlefield where armies north and south clashed. Hannibal destroyed a Roman army on the shores of Lake Trasimeno. It seems because of this bloodshed that Umbria has produced more than its share of Christian saints with peace being the main theme. The most famous is Saint Fransis of Assisi as well as the patron saint of lovers, Saint Valentine.
Perugia is a handsome, wealthy city with trendy boutiques, refined cafes and grandiose architecture. As evening falls, the Corso Vannucci fills with Perguians out for their evening passeggiata, a pleasant pre-dinner stroll.  This walkway is filled with little shops, cafes and pasticcerie. Of course the town is also famous for Perugina cioccolato. You can find the Baci candies all over Italy as well as America. Baci means kisses and inside each wrapped chocolate candy is a note about love. I had a delicious meal at La Taverna restaurant. The primo were small raviolis filled with beets and ricotta cheese. On top was a light creamy gorgonzola sauce with sprinklings of sesame seeds. One of my favorite foods in the world are truffles. No, not the chocolate truffles but tartufo itself. More tartufo nero are found in Umbria than anywhere else in Italy. So for secondo I just  HAD to order grilled veal in a mushroom sauce with shavings of black truffles on top. Absolutely divine.
Also along the Corso Vannucci you can view the history of questa citta with its connected palazzi and Il Duomo. The palaces serve as Perugia's city hall and also contains several museums. Il Duome which is called the Cathedral of San Lorenzo is most famous for being the home of the wedding ring of the Virgin Mary. The ring is kept up in a red curtained vault and is under lock. 15 to be exact. It is shown to the public on July 30th the day it was brought to Perugia and the second to last Sunday in January which is Mary's wedding anniversary. Another interesting area in Perugia is called Rocca Paolina. It is an underground city of little streets, alleys and arches built in the early 16th century. Today there are 4 sets of escalators that take you down into this area. Some of the rooms are used by various types of artists and musicians.
Soon to come - heavenly Assisi.
Happy Valentine's Day to all !!!!

Bologna "the Fat"

Fontana del Nettuno - Piazza Maggiore

The Old Stock Exchange - now a Library

Do you think they take their Crudo serious or what?

Inside the red arched sidewalks

Le Due Torre- mentioned in Dante's  - The Inferno

Santo Stefano Basilica which connects seven church's inside

Cortile di Pilato- the basin where Pilate washed his hands after condemning Christ

Outside view of the quaint arched passageways

It was a beautiful weekend in Tuscany which started out con viaggio in treno a Emilia-Romagna - an area just north of Firenze. The temperature here has been in the mid 50's with some days reaching above 60 degrees.  Before  entering the train you must punch your ticket in a machine prior to boarding. I assumed that someone would check my ticket later on but to my surprise no one did. I sat down next to un uomo da Milano who proceeded to show me a woman's shoe collection which he proudly produces. He was a distinguished looking man and we were having an enjoyable conversation even though my Italian was limited.  However, he soon informed me that we were all assigned a car number as well as a seat assignment and that I was in the wrong area. So unfortunately I had to move. On the train ride we passed through snow capped mountains and the views were beautiful. Upon arriving to Bologna the temperature was similar to Firenze.
So what is the Emilia- Romagna area noted for? The question can be answered in one word - FOOD- along with some other interesting tidbits. This area spells out 4 towns, dozens of food, and a mouthful of flavors that you will never forget. In Emilia, Italia's most famous food region, you can discover simple tastes that exceed all expectations. The secret to this region is not the discovery of new and exotic delicacies, but rather the rediscovery of foods you thought you knew - in much better versions than you have ever tasted before. Lets take one taste at a time. Parma- is the world's capital of prosciutto crudo- raw cured ham (crudo for short) - we know it as prosciutto di parma. The best crudo di parma is cut razor thin and have a light rosy red color. It is silky, less salty than we are use to in the states, more subtle yet flavorful at the same time. Reggio Emilia, is the birthplace of the crumbly and renowned Parmigiano - Reggiano cheese which can be aged up to 4 years. Questo formaggio can be served grated over pasta, by itself in chunks as an appetizer accompanied by salumi or as a dessert when it might be drizzled with honey or Modena's balsamic vinegar.  Modena- is home to Aceto-Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena which is made from the Trebbiano grape must. Cooked over an open fire and then reduced and fermented from 12 to 25 years. It takes 6 gallons of must to produce one quart of 12 year old vinegar. This intense and syrupy concoction can be drizzled over strawberries, cheese, grilled meats yet some even drink it as an after dinner liquer.  Finally we have the city of Bologna "the fat". This is the birthplace of tortellini , not to mention specialties such as mortadella and ragu ( which is bolognese sauce). Tortellini can be served asciutta - dry with bolognese sauce or in brodo where it is immersed in a beef broth.
The charm of centro Bologna is its red- arcaded sidewalks and passageways which can be attributed by the city counselors at the beginning of the 13th century. Roads could not be built without the porticoes. "Bologna the fat"  arguably has the best food in Italy. Besides indulging in it's wonderful food you can see: two landmark towers mentioned by Dante in The Inferno, the old stock exchanged now turned into a library or  Santo Stefano which is a basilica that actually contains seven churches connected together. Inside the basilica is a courtyard that is called Cortile di Pilato ( Pilate's Courtyard), named for the basin in the center. It is said that Pontius Pilate washed his hands in this basin after condemning Christ.

Sunday was another gorgeous sunny day. I was so exhausted from my trip to the E/R area that I relaxed most of the day. However, my neighbors once again asked me over for la cena. We had wonderful  homemade manicotti, then pork cooked on the open hearth fireplace which had a subtle smoky perfumo, along with insalata and a side dish of olives that were picked from the tree in front of the house where I am staying. The olives had to be brined for three months to withdraw the bitterness out of them. I was then lead to an area to observe hanging dried sausage -  this past Thurday my neighbors made their own sausage and I was told that it must hang for ten days. Of course the sausages were made both ways -sweet and  with whole peppercorns. After dinner we had formaggio and then fruit all capped off with demitasse coffee con grappa.  As a home baked cranberry pie was presented, I learned that it was my neighbors 39th wedding anniversary. Out came the Vin Santo and more dolci. So I of course granted my congratulazioni to this adorable couple. Bravo!!

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo

If there is such a thing as un tempio for foot-wear - this is it. The shoes in this dramatically displayed collection were designed by Salvatore Ferragamo ( 1898-1960). Born in southern Italy, he jumped started his career in Hollywood by creating shoes for people like Mary Pickford and Rudolph Valentino. He then returned to Florence and set up a shop in the basement of the 13th century Palazzo Spini Ferroni. The collection includes about 16,000 shoes and those on exhibit are frequently rotated. But guess what, they also do not allow pictures in the museo. Fa nabala - I mean really!!!

So I did the next best thing and went window shopping. Florence's most fashionable shops are concentrated in the center of la citta. The fanciest designer shops are mainly on Via Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova. So, con la macchina fotografica in mano, I snapped photos of some of the window displays for:  Ferragamo, Prada, Gucci, Ferre, Vuitton, Fendi and D&G.  Some may be hard to see because of the reflections. But I tried my best. Actually some wound up having creative effects per fortuna!!!      Ciao, Vincenzo